This pattern is reminiscent of the coverups so many ballerinas wear over their camisoles while they go into the studio or warm up at the barre. It is a classic design with modern details such as three-quarter sleeves and gathered shoulders. The loose design allows freedom of movement and provides just the right touch of warmth in a lightweight yarn.
Excerpt from the book, Metropolitan Knits: Chic Designs for Urban Style: "Surplice Silhouettes look great on so many different body types, but sadly they tend to be hard to find in the stores; they lack what those in the industry call 'hanger appeal'...A lightweight, beautifully drapey yarn, high-rib start, faux button placket, and gathering at the shoulders all come together in concert for a perfect additions to your wardrobe that can be worn day or night-and will drape gorgeously as you stroll around town."
Gift Set includes Metropolitan Knits by Melissa Wehrle (pattern on page 41) and selected yarn. This is the perfect gift for a knitting ballerina, teenager, or anyone who appreciates good fit and functionality. Buttons not included.
DESIGNER RECOMMENDED YARN: Any Fingering Weight Yarn. Shown in Mini Maiden by Handmaiden Fine Yarn (50% Silk / 50% Wool; 100g/547yds): 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) Skeins
ALTERNATE YARN: Nature Spun Fingering by Brown Sheep Co (100% Wool; 50g/310yds): 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) Skeins Nature Spun Fingering weight yarn is 100% made in the USA. While not as soft as Merino Wool, this is a great choice due to the strength and twist of the yarn, creating a durable and lasting project.
ALTERNATE YARN: Sock Yarn by Malabrigo (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 100g/440yds): 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) Skeins. This Superwash Merino yarn is picked for its varigated coloring, created by kettle-dying the yarn. This process creates beautiful depth and slight color variation to make a stunning garment. The high twist found in most sock yarn will make this a long wearing garment and prevent most pilling. For Ball Winding services click here.
NEEDLES: Size US 4 / 3.5mm 16" & 24" circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge, Size 3 / 3.25mm 24" Circular needle, or 1 size smaller than other needle
OTHER TOOLS: Stitch markers, Stitch Holders or waste yarn, sewing needle and matching thread to attach 5/8" buttons (4 needed)
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
GAUGE: 25 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches
SIZE: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL) Modeled with 2" positive ease
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Bust-32 (34, 36, 38.5, 40.5, 44, 48)", Waist-27.25 (28.75, 31, 33.75, 35.5, 39.25, 43.75)" Length 21.75 (22, 22.75, 23.5, 24.25, 24.75, 25.5)"
YARDAGE: 1350 - 2500 yds
A Note from Melissa- I wanted to work the lower body in the round to minimize seams, so the surplice is worked in an interesting way, working both overlapping layers at the same time. The first row or two is a little challenging, but well worth the finished outcome. The deep lower body ribbing is worked in the round on the k2, p2 rib with a section of k1, p1 rib for a faux button placket. Above the ribbing, the center front stitches are doubled, and half the stitches in the doubled section are transferred to a separate needle for the underlap of the surplice front. The body changes to working back and forth in rows to the armholes, then the fronts and back are divided for working separately to the shoulders. The sleeves are worked back and forth in rows.
The back shoulders are sloped but the front shoulders are worked straight across with ribbed details that gather the fronts softly below the shoulder seams.
The faux button placket is not only easier to work but gives a smooth fit. When a placket is worked in a section of a sweater that stretches, such as the ribbed waist here or the fullest part of a cardigan bust, a functional placket may pull and gap between the buttons. If the placket doesn’t have to unbutton, why risk letting it ruin the straight, clean lines of your sweater?